Tied together, but not same
Güncelleme Tarihi:
by Niki Gamm
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Mayıs 29, 2009 00:00
ISTANBUL - Istanbul’s Üsküdar, Kadıköy and Bostancı are districts tied to each other but different. Üsküdar has one of the longest histories of any settlement that eventually made up the city. It is a quiet place with a stunning mosques. Kadıköy made its own history and its old landing reflects the love of good design.
People living on Istanbul’s European side often don’t spend much time on the Asian side, despite its many attractions. Ask "European Istanbullus" what they associate with it and the first answers are likely to be Üsküdar, Kadıköy and Bostancı.
Üsküdar has one of the longest histories of any of the settlements that eventually made up the city of Istanbul. It is supposed to have been in existence when Homer’s Troy was flourishing in the 12th century B.C. Others suggest it was a trading outpost established by Greeks from Megara in the seventh century B.C. It has generally been a quiet place over the centuries although it played a key role in fending off attackers coming from Anatolia such as Persians and Arabs. It also was a focal point for trade between Anatolia (and the East) and Istanbul (and Europe). Üsküdar also served as the staging point from which Ottoman armies marched eastward and as the place from which the annual pilgrimage caravan starts.
Today Üsküdar is a rather quiet place with a number of stunning mosques, including one that was designed by a woman and opened last month. Many of the other mosques, including two by the famed architect Mimar Sinan, were built during the Ottoman period. Üsküdar also boasts of one of the largest cemeteries in the world; a very green space with historical Ottoman-style grave markers.
However, Üsküdar does have an outstanding landmark in the so-called Maiden’s Tower (Kiz Kulesi). The tower accompanies varied stories of its history but today boasts one of the most outstanding restaurants in Istanbul. Restored and managed by the Hamoğlu Holding Company, visitors to the tower enjoy a breathtaking view of European Istanbul. Boat services to the island are available every hour from Salacak, Üsküdar and from Kabataş on the European side.
For the average person, it would be difficult to determine just where Üsküdar ended and Kadıköy began. Kadıköy possibly has a longer history as it is thought that it was founded by adventurous Phoenicians perhaps in the second millennium B.C. The founders were blamed for being blind to the attractions of the Golden Horn as a natural harbor, but if you are coming from Asia, a harbor on the European side might not be so attractive.
In any case, Kadıköy made its own history and is chiefly remembered as being the place where the Council of Chalcedon attempted to come to grips with different versions of Christianity. Later Kadıköy became a quiet backwater, as did Üsküdar, although today, along the shoreline, many go out to the park, sit on the benches and enjoy the sea view. The train station at Haydarpaşa achieved star status in the 19th century because travelers going east would set off from here while those coming west through Anatolia would disembark. The terminal building still gives an idea of the elegance of the age. Kadıköy’s old landing also reflects the love of good design.
Popular Bağdat Boulevard
But Kadıköy is today the home of an area called Bostancı and a boulevard that drives straight through it: Bağdad Boulevard. With its upscale shops, coffeehouses, nightclubs and modern apartment buildings, Bağdad has become popular and even a tourist attraction. And just as Bostancı is newly built up, so are Moda, Fenerbahçe (of football team fame), Kalamış, Caddebostan, Maltepe and Erenköy, to mention some of the districts that have sprung up in the past hundred years.
Once upon a time this area was less populated and there were many elegant wooden houses that were summer homes for the well off. One barely sees these any more although some have survived. Putting in modern, wide roads took a large toll on these old houses while others disappeared as families took up offers to replace them with large, modern apartment buildings.Along with the modern lifestyle that seems to have come naturally to those who live there, some very good places to eat have sprung up. The Divan Patisserie started out as one location and now has three at Erenköy, Kalamış and Ümraniye. The Divan has had a good reputation for excellent food for decades, based on the kitchen of the Divan Hotel in the Taksim area.
Fenerbahçe Park
Fenerbahçe boasts of a beautiful park thanks to an agreement between the Kadıköy Municipality and the Turkish Touring and Automobile Club. The landscape has transformed what was a dreary, dusty park into one that equals any in the rest of Europe. It has five garden pavilions designed by the late Celik Gulersoy, which serve as coffeehouses during the summer.
The Fenerbahçe and Kalamış Marinas are also delightful places to spend time. They are among the cleanest in the world and are always busy. Especially during the summer, it’s possible to enjoy a Sunday brunch or just an ice cream cone and being by the sea. The Divan Brasserie is located by the Kalamış Marina. So explore and enjoy your time in Asia.
Üsküdar has one of the longest histories of any of the settlements that eventually made up the city of Istanbul. It is supposed to have been in existence when Homer’s Troy was flourishing in the 12th century B.C. Others suggest it was a trading outpost established by Greeks from Megara in the seventh century B.C. It has generally been a quiet place over the centuries although it played a key role in fending off attackers coming from Anatolia such as Persians and Arabs. It also was a focal point for trade between Anatolia (and the East) and Istanbul (and Europe). Üsküdar also served as the staging point from which Ottoman armies marched eastward and as the place from which the annual pilgrimage caravan starts.
Today Üsküdar is a rather quiet place with a number of stunning mosques, including one that was designed by a woman and opened last month. Many of the other mosques, including two by the famed architect Mimar Sinan, were built during the Ottoman period. Üsküdar also boasts of one of the largest cemeteries in the world; a very green space with historical Ottoman-style grave markers.
However, Üsküdar does have an outstanding landmark in the so-called Maiden’s Tower (Kiz Kulesi). The tower accompanies varied stories of its history but today boasts one of the most outstanding restaurants in Istanbul. Restored and managed by the Hamoğlu Holding Company, visitors to the tower enjoy a breathtaking view of European Istanbul. Boat services to the island are available every hour from Salacak, Üsküdar and from Kabataş on the European side.
For the average person, it would be difficult to determine just where Üsküdar ended and Kadıköy began. Kadıköy possibly has a longer history as it is thought that it was founded by adventurous Phoenicians perhaps in the second millennium B.C. The founders were blamed for being blind to the attractions of the Golden Horn as a natural harbor, but if you are coming from Asia, a harbor on the European side might not be so attractive.
In any case, Kadıköy made its own history and is chiefly remembered as being the place where the Council of Chalcedon attempted to come to grips with different versions of Christianity. Later Kadıköy became a quiet backwater, as did Üsküdar, although today, along the shoreline, many go out to the park, sit on the benches and enjoy the sea view. The train station at Haydarpaşa achieved star status in the 19th century because travelers going east would set off from here while those coming west through Anatolia would disembark. The terminal building still gives an idea of the elegance of the age. Kadıköy’s old landing also reflects the love of good design.
Popular Bağdat Boulevard
But Kadıköy is today the home of an area called Bostancı and a boulevard that drives straight through it: Bağdad Boulevard. With its upscale shops, coffeehouses, nightclubs and modern apartment buildings, Bağdad has become popular and even a tourist attraction. And just as Bostancı is newly built up, so are Moda, Fenerbahçe (of football team fame), Kalamış, Caddebostan, Maltepe and Erenköy, to mention some of the districts that have sprung up in the past hundred years.
Once upon a time this area was less populated and there were many elegant wooden houses that were summer homes for the well off. One barely sees these any more although some have survived. Putting in modern, wide roads took a large toll on these old houses while others disappeared as families took up offers to replace them with large, modern apartment buildings.Along with the modern lifestyle that seems to have come naturally to those who live there, some very good places to eat have sprung up. The Divan Patisserie started out as one location and now has three at Erenköy, Kalamış and Ümraniye. The Divan has had a good reputation for excellent food for decades, based on the kitchen of the Divan Hotel in the Taksim area.
Fenerbahçe Park
Fenerbahçe boasts of a beautiful park thanks to an agreement between the Kadıköy Municipality and the Turkish Touring and Automobile Club. The landscape has transformed what was a dreary, dusty park into one that equals any in the rest of Europe. It has five garden pavilions designed by the late Celik Gulersoy, which serve as coffeehouses during the summer.
The Fenerbahçe and Kalamış Marinas are also delightful places to spend time. They are among the cleanest in the world and are always busy. Especially during the summer, it’s possible to enjoy a Sunday brunch or just an ice cream cone and being by the sea. The Divan Brasserie is located by the Kalamış Marina. So explore and enjoy your time in Asia.