by Mine Erçel
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Haziran 20, 2009 00:00
ISTANBUL - In a uniquely beautiful cove on the Asian side of Istanbul's Bosphorus lies the enchanting Körfez Lokantası, considered by many as one of the best restaurants not only in the city, but also throughout the world. Longtime fans and newcomers alike have just a short time left to enjoy its food and views before the restaurant closes its doors for good July 22.
As the days grow longer, with the sun currently setting around 8:30 p.m., the twilight hours on the Bosphorus seem particularly impressive. Dining in a restaurant along its shores - especially one overlooking Istanbul from the Asian side, with a view of both continental bridges and the Rumeli Hisarı fortress - is a culinary experience that transcends the meal itself.
Körfez Lokantası has been just such a restaurant, with its romantic location in cozy Kanlica Bay, close to the foot of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and underneath a waterfront villa. But the building was recently sold and will be turned into a residential home, making the upcoming weeks the last chance for diners - whether longtime fans of the restaurant or those who keep meaning to go there - to experience Körfez. The restaurant will serve its last meal July 22.
A dramatic approach
One of the highlights of dining at Körfez Lokantasi is the lovely five-minute boat ride from the Rumeli Hisarı dock. The restaurant provides a comfortable and modern vehicle to bring guests across the dark waters under the bridge and into its cove, where they disembark and are escorted to their tables, just like real VIPs.
The white-clothed, candle-lit tables have a stunning view of the Bosphorus, as well as the charming and hushed bay still home to old-style Istanbul waterfront houses. In the summertime, an exclusive wooden patio is set up along the shores of the strait.
As the restaurant’s many fans know, Körfez Lokantasi specializes in seafood, but meat and pasta options are also available for those who prefer not to eat fish. First, a typical Turkish-style meze tray is brought to the table so diners can pick a selection of small plates, which are set not in the middle of the table, but distributed evenly on each guest’s plate. One of Körfez’s special mezes is the
balık dolması, a green grape leaf stuffed with rice and seafood. Although novel, some might prefer their dolma prepared the usual way, with rice and nuts.
The bonito sashimi is thick and juicy (although not consistently fresh every time). And the seasonal mashed-beans salad is excellent. Like the mezes, the mixed salad, served with a light olive-oil dressing, is brought in individual portions. Among the warm seafood starters, the grilled octopus is delicately seasoned and skillfully buttered.
Salt-baked fish a signature dish
One of the signature main dishes at Körfez is the flaming fish baked in a dome of salt. Ideally ordered for a group of at least three people, the fish comes to the table in a flaming pan. To serve this flamboyant dish, the waiter carefully taps the salt crust with a knife handle to release it from the top of the fish. He next slides a serving spade underneath to lift off the fillet and place it on individual plates. Inside the white salt dome lies the perfectly cooked, moist and fragrant fish, usually a sea bass.
The staff says baking fish this way seals in moisture, essentially steaming the fish, but giving it a more roasted texture. Once served, the fish can be gracefully dressed with an olive-oil-based sauce. Although Körfez also offers salmon, swordfish and seasonal seafood prepared with various techniques, the salt-baked fish is an entertaining - and surprisingly light and flavorful - option.
To complete the meal, Körfez’s legendary chocolate souffl
é is a must. Allow at least 15 minutes for the preparation of this dreamy dessert served with cream sauce and powdered sugar.
A meal at Körfez runs about 120 to 150 Turkish Liras, depending on wine choice, but it is well worth it. Many will be sad to see the legendary institution close its doors in a month’s time, not just because there are not enough good fish restaurants along the Bosphorus but because Körfez’s quiet and serene location on the Asian waterfront truly distinguishes it from all the other eating establishments in Istanbul. From the romantic boat ride to the atmosphere of the waterside patio, from the flaming salt fish to the wonderful staff, Körfez will indeed be missed.
78 Körfez Caddesi, Beykoz, Istanbul - Tel: 0216 413 4314