Kumkapı, fish center in town
Güncelleme Tarihi:
by Niki Gamm
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Mayıs 22, 2009 00:00
ISTANBUL - The Kumkapı area, on the Marmara shore of Istanbul’s commercial district of Eminönü, has been around for centuries, one of the villages that sprang up near the Byzantine-era harbor. It seems to have always had a reputation as a place where good food, plentiful drinks and a good time could be had by all. Like Beyoğlu’s Çiçek Pasajı, Kumkapı comes alive at night
Although Istanbul’s Eminönü district is mostly identified with commerce, it has noteworthy culinary attractions as well, including daytime standby Pandeli, the beacon of kebab excellence Hamdi and the original Borsa restaurant. But what if you’re in search of a great fish dinner?
That too is only a short cab ride away, in the Kumkapı area on the district’s Marmara shore. Now, say your taxi driver has just dropped you off where the shore road meets the entrance to Kumkapı. In front of you stands a row of restaurants lining either side of the pedestrian-only street. How to choose? The restaurants all look alike and offer practically the same menu of fresh fish and mezes, a selection of small dishes. Simple: Before heading out, ask around among your friends, the typical Turkish way.
But first, a bit of history: Kumkapı, meaning "Sand Gate," has been around for centuries, one of the villages that sprang up near the Byzantine-era harbor. It seems to have always had a reputation as a place where good food, plentiful drinks and a good time could be had by all. The 17th century Ottoman travel writer Evliya Çelebi noted the little neighborhood’s reputation for meyhanes Ğ generally lively restaurants serving mezes and other traditional fare along with wine, and later, the local spirit rakı Ğ as did the Armenian historian Komurciyan in the same century.
Many Armenians once settled in the area, and the Armenian Patriarchate is still found here today. Because of religious differences, the Byzantines never allowed the Armenians to live within the old city walls, but once the Ottomans conquered the city, they were permitted to do so.
A lively night out
Like Beyoğlu’s Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage), Kumkapı comes alive at night. Of course, the restaurants are also open during the day, opening around noon, and if you are more interested in food than atmosphere, a daytime trip will be a pleasant one. The area is also a good place to go during the day to talk business Ğ or perhaps more casual topics.
But it’s after 8 p.m. that Kumkapı really begins to rock. Yes, you’ll see many people who use the commuter train that stops near the restaurant area quickly walking home through the center, or hurrying in the opposite direction to catch the train elsewhere. But many are coming in droves just to eat Ğ whether tourists, local expats or the many, many Turks who know just how good the food will be.
Once you’ve decided on a restaurant and have allowed the waiters to seat you Ğ outside, since it is summer Ğ you’ll first be shown a tray of cold mezes, usually bearing a variety of fish and vegetable dishes. Choose what you want and the waiters will bring out fresh plates of food. Next, it’s time to decide whether or not you want a salad, and then the most important part: What would you like to drink? Rakı or wine is traditional, but all the restaurants also serve a variety of soft drinks and water. Next are warm mezes, and then your main course of fish, depending on what is seasonally available.
There are some differences between restaurants, even if subtle ones. If you are at Hoş Seda, for instance, the mezes might include specialties such as fish dolma, served warm. The people who run this particular restaurant are from the Black Sea, so it’s not surprising to find some unique items on the menu Ğ or off the menu, but available to regular customers who know to ask.
Kör Agop has been a fixture in Kumkapı ever since it opened in 1938. Many Turks, famous and otherwise, have chosen to enjoy themselves at this meyhane offering traditional atmosphere and decor and a menu of Turkish and Armenian specialties.
Kumkapı was spruced up just a few years ago to make it more tourist-friendly. The street was paved with cobblestones that are easy for people in tennis shoes to walk on Ğ just don’t try it in high heels. Kumkapı is a very informal place in any event Ğ great for relaxing and enjoying an evening of good food, good friends and good conversation!
That too is only a short cab ride away, in the Kumkapı area on the district’s Marmara shore. Now, say your taxi driver has just dropped you off where the shore road meets the entrance to Kumkapı. In front of you stands a row of restaurants lining either side of the pedestrian-only street. How to choose? The restaurants all look alike and offer practically the same menu of fresh fish and mezes, a selection of small dishes. Simple: Before heading out, ask around among your friends, the typical Turkish way.
But first, a bit of history: Kumkapı, meaning "Sand Gate," has been around for centuries, one of the villages that sprang up near the Byzantine-era harbor. It seems to have always had a reputation as a place where good food, plentiful drinks and a good time could be had by all. The 17th century Ottoman travel writer Evliya Çelebi noted the little neighborhood’s reputation for meyhanes Ğ generally lively restaurants serving mezes and other traditional fare along with wine, and later, the local spirit rakı Ğ as did the Armenian historian Komurciyan in the same century.
Many Armenians once settled in the area, and the Armenian Patriarchate is still found here today. Because of religious differences, the Byzantines never allowed the Armenians to live within the old city walls, but once the Ottomans conquered the city, they were permitted to do so.
A lively night out
Like Beyoğlu’s Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage), Kumkapı comes alive at night. Of course, the restaurants are also open during the day, opening around noon, and if you are more interested in food than atmosphere, a daytime trip will be a pleasant one. The area is also a good place to go during the day to talk business Ğ or perhaps more casual topics.
But it’s after 8 p.m. that Kumkapı really begins to rock. Yes, you’ll see many people who use the commuter train that stops near the restaurant area quickly walking home through the center, or hurrying in the opposite direction to catch the train elsewhere. But many are coming in droves just to eat Ğ whether tourists, local expats or the many, many Turks who know just how good the food will be.
Once you’ve decided on a restaurant and have allowed the waiters to seat you Ğ outside, since it is summer Ğ you’ll first be shown a tray of cold mezes, usually bearing a variety of fish and vegetable dishes. Choose what you want and the waiters will bring out fresh plates of food. Next, it’s time to decide whether or not you want a salad, and then the most important part: What would you like to drink? Rakı or wine is traditional, but all the restaurants also serve a variety of soft drinks and water. Next are warm mezes, and then your main course of fish, depending on what is seasonally available.
There are some differences between restaurants, even if subtle ones. If you are at Hoş Seda, for instance, the mezes might include specialties such as fish dolma, served warm. The people who run this particular restaurant are from the Black Sea, so it’s not surprising to find some unique items on the menu Ğ or off the menu, but available to regular customers who know to ask.
Kör Agop has been a fixture in Kumkapı ever since it opened in 1938. Many Turks, famous and otherwise, have chosen to enjoy themselves at this meyhane offering traditional atmosphere and decor and a menu of Turkish and Armenian specialties.
Kumkapı was spruced up just a few years ago to make it more tourist-friendly. The street was paved with cobblestones that are easy for people in tennis shoes to walk on Ğ just don’t try it in high heels. Kumkapı is a very informal place in any event Ğ great for relaxing and enjoying an evening of good food, good friends and good conversation!