by Mina Erçel
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Mayıs 02, 2009 00:00
ISTANBUL - The famous Chinese fusion restaurant Hakkasan opened in Kanyon shopping mall about a year ago. Despite ups and downs in the high-end Turkish culinary market, Hakkasan has recently updated and condensed its menu and is making a strong comeback
The long awaited London-based Asian restaurant Hakkasan opened its doors to fans on March 2008. But why in Istanbul? Restaurateur Alan Yau points a finger at his Turkish wife, Jale Eventok, for his decision to open one of Hakkasan’s first international branches abroad.
With a sexy multi-million dollar decor and seating for 210 people, the initial months after the opening in Istanbul were somewhat tough for this Michelin-starred culinary establishment. The restaurant received sharp criticism saying it is overrated for its flamboyant prices and minimalist proportions. Having visited the venue on the first days for a tasting menu, openly speaking, the Asian fusion dishes were merely average-nothing special. The service and staff was particularly disappointing and aloof. Yet now with an edited menu of favorites in Turkey and a more experienced staff, Hakkasan is making an optimistic come back in quality of taste and service.
Seductive decor
Hakkasan is located on top of the movie theater dome in Kanyon Shopping Center. The entrance is from a separate door outside with valet service or from the mall itself, next to Banana Republic. A distinct and strong smell of exotic incense fills the lobby area as you get off the elevator. Inside, almost like a nightclub, the color midnight blue dominates. In the center, a large dining room is divided into separate areas by dark screens featuring geometric designs.
Crispy duck salad & dim sum
The new and revised menu focuses on the most popular dishes by Turks in Istanbul. A personal favorite, roasted mango duck, no longer appears on the menu, but the crispy duck salad is a wonderful substitute. Steamed or fried dim sum composed of six juicy, succulent pieces of dim sum cooked to perfection is a must-try at Hakkasan.
If one does not want to splurge too much or is just at the bar sipping cocktails, the dim sum or duck salad can make for a refined and light snack.
Although the black cod is taken off the menu, the roasted Chilean sea bass with champagne and a Chinese honey sauce or the other fish choice, Sha Cha silver cod are still available and indeed worth sampling. All the dishes are traditionally brought to the center of the table for sharing, family style. For a main course, a superb and popular choice is the Pi Pa duck, which is half a duck cooked in a unique sauce. Other dishes like tofu with eggplant is particularly juicy without being too oily.
For dessert, unlike the main branch in London, Hakkasan Istanbul does not have a large variety of sweets. Sorbet dominates the small selection in addition to a warm chocolate cake.
Dining at Hakkasan is more of an overall experience in terms of an eclectic ambience, fashionably in vogue people watching and the superb presentation of fusion dishes. Although the prices have not decreased, it is nice to see that the service has improved drastically and the excellent and juicy dishes beginning to create cravings in its patrons. Be ready to splurge, as the prices are extremely high, particularly with regard to alcohol and wine. Expect to pay about 150 lira per person.
Büyükdere Cad. No: 185, Kanyon AVM
Levent, Istanbul 34394
Tel: 0212 319 8800