Ertugrul Ozkok: The waiter who wouldn't take a tip

How do you even begin to explain the things you see when you go to a corner of the world you have never been to before? I am like a dumb tourist, surprised by everything new I come across here. I am in Seoul, Korea, for a board meeting of World Publishing Federation, and let's take a look at some of my first views. I am staying at one of Seoul's tallest hotels, the "Grand Intercontinental." The view from the 22nd floor, while not exactly reminiscent of Manhattan, looks pretty much like the downtown of a typical American big city. Lots of skyscrapers. When I wake up in the morning, I call room service for breakfast service. I've plugged my iPod into some small speakers, and am listening to a wonderful collection of classical music called "Bild Gala." Just as there is a knock on the door, Rene Fleming's voice rises as she sings La Wally's "Ebben-No Andre Lotti."  I open the door, and a smiling waiter brings in the tray. He hands me the receipt, and I sign it and hand it back with a pretty generous tip. He bows, with a respect that I see in all the Koreans. I think at first that it is because he is pleased with the tip. But no. I realize that he is apologizing. He gives back the money, and says "Service is included in the price." But it doesn't even mention this on any of the hotel's brochures or documents.  *** If you come from a Mediterranean country, this behavior might surprise you. Don't misunderstand me-I am not criticizing waiters who accept tips. Infact, to the contrary, I get great pleasure from giving a well-deserved tip. But in my first moments here, I realized that this is truly a completely different culture. Our great misfortune is to be stuck somewhere between the incredible and very real respect of far Eastern culture, and the cold common sense of Western and Northern cultures. When really, there should be a road that combines these both.  There are even greater pleasures awaiting you here if you are a tourist and a Turkish citizen. Imagine a country more developed, more modern, and much richer than many European countries. And you can come here without getting a visa. And what's more, when they realize you are Turkish, they will behave even more hospitably to you. Here I would like to invoke again the memory of the Turks who fought and were injured or killed in the Korean War. And the loyality of the South Koreans to the memory of these Turks, despite half a century that has since passed.  *** And now for impressions of the city. Seoul reminds me a bit in its topography of Istanbul. There is a river which cuts through its center, maybe not quite as wide as the Boshorus, but close. Coming in from the airport, I counted around 15 or 16 bridges connecting the two sides of the city over this river. And these were just the ones I was able to count. It is impressive, especially coming from a city which still can't decide whether to put a third bridge up over the Bosphorus. Here I would like to stop to invoke the memory of those who have brought environmental concerns to a fanatic point; as you may have guessed, not in a good way though.  *** A last note....Southern Korea has shown an incredible amount of respect to the loyality of the Turks. But while here, I discover that there are Turks who are taking advantage of this love and hospitality. They have begun to make trouble for South Korea, just as happened in Japan. And so we see once again how a friendship rooted in blood and sacrifices and love can be used up so quickly by a handful of people. Â