Destination of Paris’ historic intellectuals

Once the get-together headquarters for intellectuals such as Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, the cafe has a vast history of famous clientele.

Currently, a good number of locals and tourists occupy its seats. Despite losing its authentic atmosphere and being now more of a tacky tourist hangout, it might be worth a visit for a cup of coffee, glass of champagne or even a superb platter of smoked salmon.

Sitting outside Cafe de Flore, a skinny Parisian girl and her even skinnier boyfriend slab a large chunk of butter on a thick slice of toasted bread on which they carefully spread a thin layer of smoked salmon, while sipping champagne. That is the way to go in Paris; not watching one’s waistline and complaining about how thin the locals are despite their high consumption of fat and alcohol.

Vast history of famous clientele
Established in the 1890s, today many tourists visit Cafe de Flore due to its history of attracting European intellectuals and members of the arts community from St. Germain, crossing it off from their "must do in Paris" lists. As expected, the cafe is legendary for its past patrons, fashionable location and Art Deco interior. Yet surprisingly, by observing what the local Parisians eat and imitating their selections, food at this celebrated, but overrated cafe is rather delicious.

A cup of coffee here will set you back about 4.50 euros. Along with a bottle of water, perhaps a croissant and a tip cost about 12 to 15 euros. The coffee and espresso is aromatic and tasty; albeit a bit tacky with cups, milk containers and water glasses all containing the cafes’ logo. Obviously one is not merely paying for the beverages, but for the experience of being in a landmark French institution.

The interior design has not changed much since World War II, consisting of a classic Art Deco design, red seating, mahogany walls and mirrors. Nevertheless, sitting outside is more memorable as people-watching is another highlight. In addition to the wannabe artsy American tourists, with their obviously American French accents, and locals smoking cigarettes, people-watching here is always amusing.

Cafe de Flore is famous for its weekend brunch of croissants, jam and butter. A personal favorite on the menu is the salmon fume platter. This platter is served "a la Parisian" with two thick pieces of white toasted bread, homemade butter, lemon and some of the most generous and juicy slices of salmon fume and what a joy that combination is. Although I am not sure about the hype that surrounds this cafŽ, going back for the salmon plate is definitely an option. With regard to service, be warned the staff are awfully arrogant and indifferent toward customers, especially non-French speaking customers.

Cafe de Flore 172, Boulevard St Germain Paris, France Tel: +33 1 45 48 55 26