Bringing the party to Istanbul's historic inns

For the first time, ıstanbul is hosting "Medeniyet Geçitleri – Han ve Pasaj Şenliği" (Crossroads of civilizations – Inns and Passage Festivities), organized as part of the lead up to the 2010 ıstanbul European Culture Capital. It aims to revive and promote ıstanbul's charming inns and passages.

The event, organized by a group of historians and intellectuals, will introduce the city of ıstanbul to its Istanbulites.

The idea for the festivity was conceived two years ago when the group began spending time around ıstanbul's historic peninsula. Cem Sancar, the brains behind the project, worked with Esma Ürkmez, Hande Minetoğlu, Sabit Halat, Kevser Demir, Doğan Yılmaz and Deniz Akkol to improve his idea.

Sancar characterizes the group as a crossroads of civilizations because they each have different identities, cultural and ethnic backgrounds.

After a few visits to historic inns and passages they became frequent visitors and became familiar with the shopkeepers and artisans.

The shopkeepers at first asked the group why they were there, drinking coffee and enjoying life inside the passages. “When we explained our project to the artisans and the shopkeepers, they were so excited,” said Sancar.

The festivity, supported by the ıstanbul Municipality Office of Culture, will take place in Narmanlı Han, Abud Efendi Han, Hazzo Pulo Pasajı and Suriye Pasajı. The fascinating inns and passages of ıstanbul that once were home to different cultures and religions, has hosted itinerants, intellectuals, writers, tradesmen and artisans in the past. The reason why they chose these inns and passages was that they were not really well known by people.

"Living in ıstanbul or being an Istanbulite is more than simply crossing the Bosphorus or wandering around Taksim's İstiklal Street," said Sancar. "Istanbul's inns and passages have a unique culture. The process of deciding which inns and passages we should use for our project was a little hard because ıstanbul has many charming historic sites. We preferred the ones that have courtyards where we could hold concerts, shows and workshops.”

According to Sancar keeping people at one place is not easy so besides the activities the place should look interesting to people. Because İstiklal Street is well known and all the important events are held there, the group decided to attract attention to historic peninsula’s unknown places.

Emphasizing that this year’s event is just a start, Sancar said, “The festivity will not only bring life to the neighborhood of the passages, it will also support the trade. The only passage administration that didn’t show enough interest in our project was Hazzo Pula Pasajı. Still, we will put up a streamer in front of the passage that tells about the history of the passage,” said the project manager.

While some did not really pay attention to the project, one of the passage’s shopkeepers gathered money and repaired the bathroom before the event kicked off.

“Medeniyet Geçitleri – Han ve Pasaj Şenliği” hosts Grup Koptu Kervan, street musicians who sing ethnic songs in many different languages, as well as Grup Karagüneş, Gypsy Sounds of ıstanbul by Bülent Sesler, Grup Günyüzü and Grup Zamansız. Yet, musicians and dancers will not only hold the performances. Artisans will accompany musicians with the sounds they make while presenting their art.”

There was a need for action and activities inside these inns and passages on the peninsula, said Sancar adding that İstiklal Street is a bit tired and exhusted already with most activities taking place in İstiklal.�

The group has a small budget but has already started working to improve the project for the coming years. For 2009 there are plans to hold a symposium on inns and passages of ıstanbul and also shooting a documentary. For 2010, while continuing the organization of the event, they will create an archive. The group’s biggest aim is to carry this event to Europe.