A gastronomic journey across parts of Anatolia
Güncelleme Tarihi:
by Jane Tuna
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Mayıs 30, 2009 00:00
FETHİYE - A trip across the heartland of Anatolia is a pleasurable experience for one’s tastebuds. From mouthwatering kebabs with a style unique to their own region to desserts that will have one almost fainting with pleasure and seriously test one’s will power to resist that extra bite, the journey proves a not-to-be-missed experience as the modes of transport too are plentiful and economical.
Breakfast in Antalya Yaylasi, lunch in Ankara and dinner in Şanlıurfa may sound an improbable way to spend the day but when traveling from the southwest to the southeast of Turkey; it is a remarkable opportunity to enjoy three dramatically different locations, cuisines and cultures in 12 hours.
Turkey has an enviable network of bus routes and airports, both are efficient and economic. If any traveler wishes to see the diverse and glorious towns, cities and countryside, comfortable buses from the main companies are usually the best option, but on this occasion the plane wins.
The Fethiye is an Antalya road that passes over the highlands of the Western Toros (Taurus) Mountains, and winding through small towns and villages, some of which are more than 1,500 meters high. Stepping from the car into the chill in the air on a sunny morning is refreshing. Soups and breakfasts served at the roadside cafs are a great way to have a quick bite en-route.
The four hour stop over in Ankara provided a splendid opportunity to visit Turkey’s capital city, which is often underrated as a tourist destination. A taxi can take new visitors past some of the city’s sites, such as the first Parliament building, the various embassies and Atatürk’s mausoleum. The historic castle area makes a perfect destination, an opportunity to stretch ones legs and wander around the shops and cobbled streets, before eating at one of the best kebab houses in the city.
Sadık Candan is from Erzurum and has a small, simply furnished establishment nestled under the castle parapet called "Meşhur Oltu Kabapçısı." "Every morning at 11 o’clock I light the fire under the special Oltu kebab, for which we are famous in Ankara," he said, his round smiling face beaming with pride at his daily accomplishment. "We can serve several hundred meals a day. Our food is fresh, simple and tasty."
Indeed it is. Succulent pieces of lamb, onion, herbs and spices are roasted on a horizontal spit. Sizzling, juicy slices are cut and with great dexterity transferred onto skewers. These are served with salad and traditional flat bread or Yufka. The yogurt drink Ayran accompanies the meal. A few small kebabs start things off but more are available on request.
A visit to the incomparable Museum of Anatolian Civilizations requires an overnight stay if time permits. It is essential for anyone who wants to understand the historic importance of Turkey to visit both here and the Ethnography museum. Together they cover more than 10,000 years of Anatolian history.
But Şanlıurfa beckons and it’s time to return to the airport, possibly after having had to loosen the belt a couple of notches. In no time at all the plane is flying over the immense Ataturk reservoirs to the west of Şanlıurfa and landing at the airport of this small provincial capital of one and a half million inhabitants. The terrain is very different from western Turkey and there is a distinct atmosphere of the orient, with the architecture, people, language, culture, music and food all contributing to a rich diversity and exotic ambience.
For Muslims, the main reason to visit the city is to make a pilgrimage to the sacred fish pools and the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. It is said that Abraham was born in a cave in the cliffs above Urfa, which is now a reverential place of worship. The pools below came about, it is said, when Abraham confronted the megalomaniacal Nemrut and tried to smash idols in the temple. The punishment Nemrut meted out for this was to have Abraham hurled off the cliff into a fire.
God saved Abraham; the fire turned to water and the firewood to fish. These carp are holy and although it is possible to feed them with special food, while saying special prayers, it is forbidden to catch them. The surrounding mosques, Medrese (Ottoman religious schools), restored medieval houses and markets are good areas to explore while working up an appetite for dinner.Without doubt one of the best places to eat in Şanlıurfa is Cevahir Konuk Evi. It is also a good place to stay for a night or so while exploring the province. The Konuk Evi or mansion is a fine example of Urfa’s 19th century architecture. It has been sympathetically restored, is small Ğ just six rooms Ğ with friendly and helpful staff. Making a reservation is essential.
The food in Urfa is meaty. Lamb is served in numerous different ways but all equally delicious. Two of the most famous of this region are Çiğ Köfte, which is tender and raw minced lamb mixed with fragrant and hot spices for hours, formed into small sausage shapes and served wrapped up in a lettuce leaf.
They are unusual, maybe for visitors to Turkey but when watching them being lovingly made in accordance with the ritual, in the special dining halls of the old mansions, together with Urfa’s celebrated music, they can be enjoyed as an authentic part of local culture. The other dish is İçli Köfte, again with lamb but this time stuffed into a small, shell-like case of bulgur wheat, sealed and fried. The food is spicier and influenced by Arabic and Persian cuisine than in other parts of Turkey.
Desserts should not be missed if at all possible. The famous Kunefe (similar to shredded wheat) is stuffed with cheese or thick cream (Kaymak) baked and covered in syrup. Incidentally most of Urfa is dry. No alcohol is served in any of the hotels in the gölbaşı (lakeside area) but the lack of boozy late nights do prepare visitors for an early start the next day when, across the hot dusty plain the intrepid adventurer can hire a car to visit Harran.
Turkey has an enviable network of bus routes and airports, both are efficient and economic. If any traveler wishes to see the diverse and glorious towns, cities and countryside, comfortable buses from the main companies are usually the best option, but on this occasion the plane wins.
The Fethiye is an Antalya road that passes over the highlands of the Western Toros (Taurus) Mountains, and winding through small towns and villages, some of which are more than 1,500 meters high. Stepping from the car into the chill in the air on a sunny morning is refreshing. Soups and breakfasts served at the roadside cafs are a great way to have a quick bite en-route.
The four hour stop over in Ankara provided a splendid opportunity to visit Turkey’s capital city, which is often underrated as a tourist destination. A taxi can take new visitors past some of the city’s sites, such as the first Parliament building, the various embassies and Atatürk’s mausoleum. The historic castle area makes a perfect destination, an opportunity to stretch ones legs and wander around the shops and cobbled streets, before eating at one of the best kebab houses in the city.
Sadık Candan is from Erzurum and has a small, simply furnished establishment nestled under the castle parapet called "Meşhur Oltu Kabapçısı." "Every morning at 11 o’clock I light the fire under the special Oltu kebab, for which we are famous in Ankara," he said, his round smiling face beaming with pride at his daily accomplishment. "We can serve several hundred meals a day. Our food is fresh, simple and tasty."
Indeed it is. Succulent pieces of lamb, onion, herbs and spices are roasted on a horizontal spit. Sizzling, juicy slices are cut and with great dexterity transferred onto skewers. These are served with salad and traditional flat bread or Yufka. The yogurt drink Ayran accompanies the meal. A few small kebabs start things off but more are available on request.
A visit to the incomparable Museum of Anatolian Civilizations requires an overnight stay if time permits. It is essential for anyone who wants to understand the historic importance of Turkey to visit both here and the Ethnography museum. Together they cover more than 10,000 years of Anatolian history.
But Şanlıurfa beckons and it’s time to return to the airport, possibly after having had to loosen the belt a couple of notches. In no time at all the plane is flying over the immense Ataturk reservoirs to the west of Şanlıurfa and landing at the airport of this small provincial capital of one and a half million inhabitants. The terrain is very different from western Turkey and there is a distinct atmosphere of the orient, with the architecture, people, language, culture, music and food all contributing to a rich diversity and exotic ambience.
For Muslims, the main reason to visit the city is to make a pilgrimage to the sacred fish pools and the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. It is said that Abraham was born in a cave in the cliffs above Urfa, which is now a reverential place of worship. The pools below came about, it is said, when Abraham confronted the megalomaniacal Nemrut and tried to smash idols in the temple. The punishment Nemrut meted out for this was to have Abraham hurled off the cliff into a fire.
God saved Abraham; the fire turned to water and the firewood to fish. These carp are holy and although it is possible to feed them with special food, while saying special prayers, it is forbidden to catch them. The surrounding mosques, Medrese (Ottoman religious schools), restored medieval houses and markets are good areas to explore while working up an appetite for dinner.Without doubt one of the best places to eat in Şanlıurfa is Cevahir Konuk Evi. It is also a good place to stay for a night or so while exploring the province. The Konuk Evi or mansion is a fine example of Urfa’s 19th century architecture. It has been sympathetically restored, is small Ğ just six rooms Ğ with friendly and helpful staff. Making a reservation is essential.
The food in Urfa is meaty. Lamb is served in numerous different ways but all equally delicious. Two of the most famous of this region are Çiğ Köfte, which is tender and raw minced lamb mixed with fragrant and hot spices for hours, formed into small sausage shapes and served wrapped up in a lettuce leaf.
They are unusual, maybe for visitors to Turkey but when watching them being lovingly made in accordance with the ritual, in the special dining halls of the old mansions, together with Urfa’s celebrated music, they can be enjoyed as an authentic part of local culture. The other dish is İçli Köfte, again with lamb but this time stuffed into a small, shell-like case of bulgur wheat, sealed and fried. The food is spicier and influenced by Arabic and Persian cuisine than in other parts of Turkey.
Desserts should not be missed if at all possible. The famous Kunefe (similar to shredded wheat) is stuffed with cheese or thick cream (Kaymak) baked and covered in syrup. Incidentally most of Urfa is dry. No alcohol is served in any of the hotels in the gölbaşı (lakeside area) but the lack of boozy late nights do prepare visitors for an early start the next day when, across the hot dusty plain the intrepid adventurer can hire a car to visit Harran.