Traveling along the historical Golden Horn

One of the oldest districts in Istanbul extends from the Galata Bridge on the east to Eyüp and the Pierre Loti Cafe on the west. Filled with historical monuments, Eyüp Sultan Mosque, the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, parks and other tourist attractions, the south side of the Golden Horn draws many visitors.

The estuary of two small rivers that come from the Belgrade Forest, the Golden Horn historically provided a great basin before it flowed into the Sea of Marmara, as well as shelter during winter storms for people anxious to trade with the Black Sea, Aegean and Mediterranean regions. The shores toward Eminönü were filled with shops, depots and stores, but the makeup of the area changed around Unkapanı, where members of minority groups settled. As one moved toward Eyüp, the dense housing gave way to mansions owned by members of the Ottoman dynasty and areas devoted to vegetable and fruit gardening.

Imitating the West

In the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire’s attempts to imitate the West and industrialize led to factories being built along the Golden Horn. Without any solution for the toxic wastes produced, the waterway became so polluted that the stench was overpowering. Ongoing efforts starting in the 1980s have helped clean the water and today people can enjoy the many parks that extend most of the length of the Golden Horn’s southern side. Now the Cambridge and Bosphorus rowing teams can compete in comfort.

Starting from the outskirts of Eminönü, a stop at one of the most interesting of the city’s small mosques is a must. Rüstem Paşa Mosque, built in 1561, has the best examples of the famous İznik tiles on the inside and the outside of the building.

At Unkapanı, we see the extraordinary Zeyrekhane Cathedral on the hill to the left. Dating to 12th century Byzantium, it is in the process of being restored - and would have been finished by now if the wrong bricks hadn’t been ordered. On the monastery grounds nearby is an interesting restaurant, Zeyrekhane, where one can enjoy a tasty meal on the terrace overlooking the Golden Horn. If the weather is inclement, diners can shelter in the main building, where the décor features Ottoman antiques.


Greek Orthodox Church

Back on the Golden Horn, the next stop is the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. While one can readily visit the Church of St. George on the premises, the rest of the buildings are closed to the general public. While the church is interesting anytime, visiting it on a Sunday morning, when services are held, can be especially inspiring as one watches a ceremony that dates back to the Byzantine period.

On the road in front of the Patriarchate is the well-known Daphnis Hotel, made up of four, 110-year-old Rum (Greeks born in Turkey) traditional houses and furnished in an appropriate style. Its 16 rooms are decorated separately with stained glass, marble sinks and old water pumps - in short, everything that reminds one of the very early 20th century. The hotel also has a restaurant.

The whole area is replete with mosques, churches and synagogues, including the Bulgarian church made entirely of prefabricated cast iron in the 1880s. The only other example of such construction was in Vienna, but it was destroyed during World War II. The church is opened for worship on saints’ days, but it is not clear for how long that will continue. The building itself has been fighting off rust for decades.