One of Beyoğlu’s earliest foreign embassies - Palais de Hollande
Güncelleme Tarihi:
by Gül Demir and Niki Gamm
Oluşturulma Tarihi: Ocak 03, 2009 00:00
ISTANBUL - The first Dutch envoy, Cornelius Haga, reached Istanbul in 1612 to negotiate the terms of trade, fiscal and legal provisions between Holland and the Ottoman Empire. The Palais de Hollande is a charming example of the elegant buildings designed in Istanbul’s Pera by foreign architects.
Nineteenth century Istanbul was a magnet for artists and architects with the promise of lucrative commissions from the imperial palace and wealthy families, businesses and municipalities. And of course the romanticism of that era lent rose-colored glasses to their perceptions at a time that the Ottomans were developing a deep and widespread admiration for all things western.
In Istanbul the Pera area, today’s Beyoğlu, had historically been the district in which foreigners are lived. The Ottomans had in part tried to keep Muslims separate from non-Muslims and so did not give permission for foreigners to reside or build in the old city on the peninsula for example. Pera, or Galata as it was also known, had long been home to foreigners, sailors and trading ships. It was possible to lead a much freer life there; its taverns, wine shops, flop houses and dens of iniquity did a thriving business. And yes, Muslims went there slumming.
Pera enjoyed a particular incentive for settling there Ğ the beautiful view from its heights - and foreigners were quick to see this advantage. The first foreigners to settle there were apparently the Genoese but it wasn’t long after the conquest of Istanbul that other foreigners began to arrive. Trade led the way to a need for diplomatic representation.
The first diplomats
In terms of temporary missions, the Italians or rather the Genoese and the Venetians probably sent the most because they were seafaring city-states trying to defend their holdings in the Mediterranean and eventually losing in the face of the growing Ottoman naval fleet.
The first Dutch envoy, Cornelius Haga, reached Istanbul in 1612 to negotiate the terms of trade and fiscal and legal provisions between Holland and the Ottoman Empire, the so-called capitulations. The Venetian and the French ambassadors who were already there reportedly were less than pleased to see this rival although they and England as well had already successfully negotiated their own capitulations. Haga was made to wait but eventually obtained what he sought. As he had no plans to stay, he apparently rented rather luxurious accommodations in Pera and there is some thought that these were located where the present building is according to Marlies Hoenkamp-Mazgon in her book, Palais de Hollande in Istanbul.
The first Dutch embassy became official with the purchase in 1675 of the building that had originally been rented by that country’s representatives. Now these representatives, members of the Colyer family, owned it. Unfortunately fire nearly destroyed the embassy in 1690 and another fire wiped out the whole Pera quarter in 1700. More land was purchased and two new structures were put up.
According to one source, the structures were actually on land that fronted on what is today’s Istiklal Caddesi. The palace as it had come to be known consisted of a large number of rooms that could be used for multiple purposes. As well, there was a large garden, some of which remains today and a garden house and a stone warehouse that served as a chapel. The view from the main building in part looked over at Uskudar and the other showed Topkapi Palace.
In fact it seems to have been genuinely admired. But another destructive fire destroyed Pera again in 1767. Three years later, a six-story palace replaced the one that had burned down. This at any rate lasted until yet another fire ravaged Pera in 1831 and for the next 25 years a wooden structure that had been erected on the site served as the chancellery.
Today’s Palais de Hollande comes from the 1850s and not without complaints about flimsiness of construction and water running down interior walls from the roof. Quite a number of foreign architects had found their way to Istanbul. The architect of the Dutch embassy was Giovanni Battista Barborini, an Italian born in 1820 in Parma. He came to Istanbul in 1849 after being wounded in clashes between Italian nationalist and Austrian forces. If he is the same Giovanni Battista Barborini who designed the sets for performances of "Fausta" during the Spring Lyric Season 1841 (Stagione lirica primavera 1841). As the music was written by the world-famed Gaetano Donizetti, Barborini may well have been aware of the opportunities offered by working in Istanbul. Donizetti’s brother, Giuseppi, was there as the imperial bandmaster and music instructor to the palace; he was eventually given the title of pasa.
Until 1880 Barborini worked in Istanbul, often taking on commissions for the Fossati brothers who had already established themselves and were in great demand. It has been thought that the design of the embassy actually was made by the Fossatis and while they did make a plan apparently not accepted by the Dutch government of the time which was strapped for funds. The most important work that Barborini undertook in Istanbul was Pera’s municipal building. Several other Istanbul structures that still stand in addition to the Dutch embassy have been attributed to him likewise. The Barborini design was finally accepted and that is what we generally see today. The building has since been renovated and the functions of the rooms changed several times as the Dutch government began to give more and more importance to its relationship with Turkey. From being an embassy it had become a consulate general and as Turkey and its businessmen turned more and more to the outside world, the place gained in importance. Weighing any possible gain if the building were sold as opposed to renovating it, the latter won the day.
The entrance on İstiklal Caddesi with its attractive black gate lets one glimpse a low, attractive building with the entrance directly in front. One can easily imagine a horse and carriage smartly driving up to the door as a servant opens the door to go inside. It now boasts of a smart courtyard garden. The entrance gives on to a relatively narrow hall where people could take their coats or cloaks off before entering the main reception room. Across this room is a magnificent balcony from which one can enjoy a view of the back garden. The interior decoration is elegant, full of the grace one expects of a 19th century Palais de Hollande.
In Istanbul the Pera area, today’s Beyoğlu, had historically been the district in which foreigners are lived. The Ottomans had in part tried to keep Muslims separate from non-Muslims and so did not give permission for foreigners to reside or build in the old city on the peninsula for example. Pera, or Galata as it was also known, had long been home to foreigners, sailors and trading ships. It was possible to lead a much freer life there; its taverns, wine shops, flop houses and dens of iniquity did a thriving business. And yes, Muslims went there slumming.
Pera enjoyed a particular incentive for settling there Ğ the beautiful view from its heights - and foreigners were quick to see this advantage. The first foreigners to settle there were apparently the Genoese but it wasn’t long after the conquest of Istanbul that other foreigners began to arrive. Trade led the way to a need for diplomatic representation.
The first diplomats
In terms of temporary missions, the Italians or rather the Genoese and the Venetians probably sent the most because they were seafaring city-states trying to defend their holdings in the Mediterranean and eventually losing in the face of the growing Ottoman naval fleet.
The first Dutch envoy, Cornelius Haga, reached Istanbul in 1612 to negotiate the terms of trade and fiscal and legal provisions between Holland and the Ottoman Empire, the so-called capitulations. The Venetian and the French ambassadors who were already there reportedly were less than pleased to see this rival although they and England as well had already successfully negotiated their own capitulations. Haga was made to wait but eventually obtained what he sought. As he had no plans to stay, he apparently rented rather luxurious accommodations in Pera and there is some thought that these were located where the present building is according to Marlies Hoenkamp-Mazgon in her book, Palais de Hollande in Istanbul.
The first Dutch embassy became official with the purchase in 1675 of the building that had originally been rented by that country’s representatives. Now these representatives, members of the Colyer family, owned it. Unfortunately fire nearly destroyed the embassy in 1690 and another fire wiped out the whole Pera quarter in 1700. More land was purchased and two new structures were put up.
According to one source, the structures were actually on land that fronted on what is today’s Istiklal Caddesi. The palace as it had come to be known consisted of a large number of rooms that could be used for multiple purposes. As well, there was a large garden, some of which remains today and a garden house and a stone warehouse that served as a chapel. The view from the main building in part looked over at Uskudar and the other showed Topkapi Palace.
In fact it seems to have been genuinely admired. But another destructive fire destroyed Pera again in 1767. Three years later, a six-story palace replaced the one that had burned down. This at any rate lasted until yet another fire ravaged Pera in 1831 and for the next 25 years a wooden structure that had been erected on the site served as the chancellery.
Today’s Palais de Hollande comes from the 1850s and not without complaints about flimsiness of construction and water running down interior walls from the roof. Quite a number of foreign architects had found their way to Istanbul. The architect of the Dutch embassy was Giovanni Battista Barborini, an Italian born in 1820 in Parma. He came to Istanbul in 1849 after being wounded in clashes between Italian nationalist and Austrian forces. If he is the same Giovanni Battista Barborini who designed the sets for performances of "Fausta" during the Spring Lyric Season 1841 (Stagione lirica primavera 1841). As the music was written by the world-famed Gaetano Donizetti, Barborini may well have been aware of the opportunities offered by working in Istanbul. Donizetti’s brother, Giuseppi, was there as the imperial bandmaster and music instructor to the palace; he was eventually given the title of pasa.
Until 1880 Barborini worked in Istanbul, often taking on commissions for the Fossati brothers who had already established themselves and were in great demand. It has been thought that the design of the embassy actually was made by the Fossatis and while they did make a plan apparently not accepted by the Dutch government of the time which was strapped for funds. The most important work that Barborini undertook in Istanbul was Pera’s municipal building. Several other Istanbul structures that still stand in addition to the Dutch embassy have been attributed to him likewise. The Barborini design was finally accepted and that is what we generally see today. The building has since been renovated and the functions of the rooms changed several times as the Dutch government began to give more and more importance to its relationship with Turkey. From being an embassy it had become a consulate general and as Turkey and its businessmen turned more and more to the outside world, the place gained in importance. Weighing any possible gain if the building were sold as opposed to renovating it, the latter won the day.
The entrance on İstiklal Caddesi with its attractive black gate lets one glimpse a low, attractive building with the entrance directly in front. One can easily imagine a horse and carriage smartly driving up to the door as a servant opens the door to go inside. It now boasts of a smart courtyard garden. The entrance gives on to a relatively narrow hall where people could take their coats or cloaks off before entering the main reception room. Across this room is a magnificent balcony from which one can enjoy a view of the back garden. The interior decoration is elegant, full of the grace one expects of a 19th century Palais de Hollande.